Rocky Island and Zabargad are two of the most remote dive sites accessible in Egypt, a pair of islands in the deep south, reached only by liveaboard. The sites see far fewer divers, and the reef condition reflects that.

Rocky Island is a sheer-sided seamount rising from deep water. The walls drop vertically in every direction. The primary draw for most divers is the tiger shark, it is why the site has a dedicated following despite its remoteness. Tiger sharks are rare here, and rarer than the scalloped hammerhead, which itself is considered a rare sighting. Do not come expecting a guarantee. The soft coral walls are a highlight in their own right, dense growth covering the seamount faces in brilliant colour, with massive schools of barracuda hanging above and grey reef sharks working the walls below.

Zabargad sits nearby and is a different kind of dive entirely. The island is historically extraordinary, it was the world's primary source of peridot, the pale green gemstone, for over 3,500 years, from ancient Egyptian times through to the 19th century. The ancient Greeks called it Topazos. The mines are still visible on the island. Zabargad, in fact, is the Arabic word for peridot, the island takes its name from the stone. The reef surrounding it is among the most pristine in the Red Sea: dense coral coverage, abundant reef fish, turtles, rays. The outer walls deliver pelagics; the inner reef is calm and exceptional for anyone willing to slow down.

This is a season-dependent itinerary. The sites are only diveable between October and May, summer brings conditions that make the crossing impractical. Other operators visit occasionally but not on a fixed schedule. If you have the chance to go, you go.